Sun 27 Feb
And so, off to Melbourne. We arrived late morning and were picked up by K, the friend who we were staying with.
Temp: 17 Deg C, no humidity
Time: no change from Sydney (still GMT +11)
A brief detour via K's place to drop off bags and pick up another friend S, then we headed out to the Mornington Peninsula, a beautiful wine area that runs along the south-east of Port Philip Bay. We had a lunch booking at the 1 hat (like a Michelin star) restaurant on Montalto estate, a farm that specialises in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Lunch was superlative, a set menu (I had the lamb, La had the barramundi [fish], followed by rhubarb brulee and oozy choc pudding) and some wine tasters. Delish. Then went for a wander round the installation art/scuplture on display in the gardens and around the vineyards.
Scenic drive home along the coastline, then unpacked and went for a walk in St Kilda's Acland Street, a very trendy mix of bars, coffee shops and cake shops; think Melville (Jhb) with less sleaze. Even for a Sunday night, it was pretty busy. Lunch had been late, but K and I still managed to fit in falafel in pita. The falafel ball mix was being machine gunned into the oil by some sort of mincer/spitter/outer contraption. Amazing. We rounded off the evening with a night stroll on the St Kilda beach front.
Day 44
Mon 28 Feb
After a fairly relaxed breakfast, we borrowd bikes from our hosts and cycled through Brighton down to the Bay. We then biked along the cycle path running next to the ocean, all the way to St Kilda harbour and then back to where we were staying, about 16km round trip. Easy on the legs, but not so much on the bums, which were not used to bike seats. A great way to see that part of Melbourne with its wide streets and verges and pavements and beautiful houses.
Back at K's place, we did our first DIY lunch in what felt like ages then made our way into the city, straight into Flinders Street station on the train. First stop was Federation Square and a view over the Yarra river, then we were on 'Masterchef Australia' location hunting. First success was 'Movida' and the alley adjacent to it; next was 'The Press Club'. The months before our trip we had become addicted to the show so this was a bit like a groupie pilgramage.
Some more wandering in the city, we had a coffee in Burke Street, window shopped in the Burke St mall and explored some of the alley ways to either side, crammed full of speciality shops, from boutiques selling hats to more coffee and cake places.
Then, we had our first Melbourne Tram experience, riding the 64 line back to K's place, where he had been slaving away over our supper: mediterranean style hake in parcels. After we'd eaten, we met up with a former Pretorian, G (who we'd been friendly with in London) and his wife D for a catch up and home baked brownies.
Day 45
Tue 01 Mar
After breakfast, took a tram into the city and headed straight for the Queen Victoria Market, one of Melbourne's biggest fresh produce markets. The market has several large food halls, divided into meat, fish, fruit, veg, deli goods. Awesome. And then another few large halls full of flea market tat. We wandered up and down, bought some fruit, a bit of lunch and some souvenirs. We also bought a tasteful gift for our host K.
After lunch we picked up a hire car and then headed for the Dandenongs, an area of hills and valleys and rainforesty type stuff, about an hour East of Melbourne. Great drive and lovely meandering rode up towards Mount Dandenong (633m). We stopped at the National Rhodendendrum Gardens, which are truly spectacular, and where we got a little lost amongst the plants. We were a little late in the season to see them in their full flowering glory but still a fantastic place to visit. We pushed on to the village of Sassafras for some tea and scones, but missed last orders (at 16:30!) at most of the shops.
Back in Melbourne we had a few hours to freshen up and then headed out to my cousins A & V who lived virtually around the corner from K. It was a big family affair with A&V's sons, cousin B and wife K and their youngest and cousin N. Over schnitzel, falafel and chips, my Melbourne family were properly introduced to La and we picked their brains for stuff to do in our last full day in Melbourne.
Back at K we had a quick catch up and presented him with a beautiful tea towel hook thing, sure to take pride of place in his kitchen. (Link)
Day 46
Wed 02 Mar
For our last full day in Melbourne we parked the hire car in a side street near North Brighton station, bought a quick coffee (another excellent flat white) and then trained into Flinders Street in the city centre. From there we took the free tourist shuttle bus, winding its way past the MCG (huge!) up to the Italian quarter, where we got off in Lygon Street. This street has an incredible array of Italian cusine on offer, virtually every shop is either a pizza or pasta place or both. Of note was the beautiful Brunetti cake and coffee palace which has rows and rows of the most delicate looking pastries, tantalising torte and craftily crafted cakes. And sandwiches on delicious Italian breads and, of course, excellent coffee.
Next, a stroll through Carlton gardens past the Melbourne museum and Royal Exhibition building and into Brunswick Street precinct of Fitzroy, a multicultural district full of bars and galleries and eateries. We eventually settled on a satellite shop of Brunetti (how could we not?) and had lovely sandwiches and coffee.
After lunch we trammed back towards the city centre, hopping off at the Sofitel in Collins Street. Why, you might ask? Because on the 35th floor of that hotel, there is a restaurant, and the restaurant has public loos, and the loos have floor to ceiling windows with a sweeping view over Melbourne. Incredible views, although I must admit to feeling a little uncertain of the strength of the glass so didn't get too close or lean on the blessed things. The mens room faces east with a view of the Yarra river, the MCG (still huge), the Bay and the Dandenongs in the distance.
Visually sated and with empty bladders we continued wandering down Collins Street, noting the craziness of the Melbourne 'hook' turns (to turn right in the city centre and to avoid blocking trams, you bear left, effectively stopping in front of the cars waiting at the Red light, sort of joining their wait but cutting to the front of the queue, until the lights go green for you), and turning down some of the little narrow alleyways crammed with bars and coffee shops and Thai food places, like Flinders Lane and Degraves Street.
We crossed over the Yarra River at Queens bridge for a walk along the south bank, snuck into the Langham Hotel for a snoop round and to make use of their facilities (5 star toilets I say!). We then had an ice cream on the river side, walked along the bank to Alexandra Gardens, and narrowly avoided being knocked out by rowing club fitness freaks taking their punts onto the water. We crossed back over the river at Swan St bridge towards the unnofficial sporting district. First we came across the Rod Laver arena, home of the Australian Open (tennis), then the HiSense (soccer) arena and lastly the Melbourne Cricket Ground, as mentioned before, pretty huge, and actually used for both cricket and Aussie Rules football.
Ended off our travels in the city with a tram to the Chapel St precint for some window shopping, popped into the Prahran market there (but too late, it was closed already) and had one last Melbourne flat white before taking a train back to our car. Supper was a delicious Italian meal with friend's of La's mom, J and M, at Rossini Ristorante in Malvern, followed by frozen yoghurt from IglooZoo (great name!) for dessert. Lovely, but very full.
Day 47
Thu 03 Mar
Mostly a travel day but I managed to squeeze in a quick run along the beach, from Brighton up to St Kilda and back. Breakfast, finished packing and then followed trusty sat nav instructions to the airport. But because we were so early, I decided instead to try give my lovely wife heart failure by taking a wrong turn and missing our off-ramp and heading about 20 minutes round trip out of our way.
But got to the airport in the end, in good time, and checked through. Then had a delightful conversation or 3 with Melbourne toll road people to pay for a toll charge for using the highway to the airport. Of course it is possible that our detour also took us over a toll route (they don't have booths, just automated things for people with chip devices in their cars, and for the rest of us, they expect you to know where you went and phone and fess up) but as I couldn't remember which bridge I got lost on...
Flight across to Bangkok was ok, quite late at night when we arrived but still quite warm. And only the second location on our trip where we know no-one (Hawaii was the other).
Temp: 32 Deg C with 85% humidity
Time: -4 hours (GMT +7)
Crazy taxi driver, chatted to us the whole way into the city in broken English, main topic was pointing out the railway lines and stations of the new SkyTrain route from the airport to the city. No irony meant I'm sure. Arrived at our hotel, what bliss. Everything crisp and clean and air conditioned loveliness. The housekeeping origami artist had twisted one of our hand towels into an elephant; genius! Also the hotel has an all day lounge with coffee and snacks and juices. Next time you're in Bangkok I strongly recommend a drop-in to sample the wonderful green guava juice on offer.
Day 48
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